These are the main factors we run through when designing your loft. The good news is you don’t need to worry about all of them - that’s our job.
Some things we’ll need your input on, such as window types or how you want the space arranged. Others we’ll design in a way that works well, and you can tweak if you feel strongly. In many cases, there’s an obvious, sensible solution that most people are happy to go with.
There are also a few areas where there isn’t really a choice. These are driven by construction realities or building regulations, so they tend to be fixed whether we like it or not.
Practical or construction issue
May need a decision if options
We’ll need your decision on it
1 Staircase
2 Landing and door
3 Window to Stairwell and Landing
4 Main window or French doors
5 Alcove at the dormer face
6 Insulating the Chimney-Partywall
7 Alcove between the chimneys
8 Typical Bed position
9 Mainroom Ceiling height
10 Sloping ceiling below 1.8m
11 Mainroom dwarf wall
12 Eaves access
13 Veluxes to the Mainroom
14 Ensuite door
15 Ensuite size
16 Ensuite dwarf wall
17 WC position
18 Velux over the WC
19 Basin and Radiator positions
20 Insulating the Stairside-Partywall
21 Shower size and position
22 Wardrobe space
23 Wardrobe doors
24 Floating wall
25 Dressing Area or other
In all cases, we strive to design the staircase to maximize the remaining space.
We'll explore several configurations to determine the one that works best, both for the first floor and the loft space.
At the top of the staircase, you need a landing, the length of which must be no less than the width of the staircase, and the door will open into the room.
If you're greeted by wonderful views as you ascend the staircase, you might opt for a full-height window, positioned directly opposite the staircase. Alternatively, offset the window to both the landing and the stairwell.
The main window to the loft space can be standard windows, French doors, or even a full-height window, positioned to the main space within or aligned with the window on the first floor below for aesthetic reasons.
A construction matter - parapets on the roof and the height of your neighbours’ roofs will determine the depth of the alcove or none at all.
A regulations matter - your chimney wall need for insulation depends on whether your neighbors have also converted their lofts. If they have then you won’t need insulation and you gain a bit of extra space.
The same applies to the alcove between the chimneys. If the chimneys are in poor condition and lack insulation, there might not be much usable space between them, in which case {{Contractor?}} will build straight across for a cleaner look. However, if the room is narrow, you might decide to retain the alcove.
When positioning the bed, several factors are considered, including the width, the length, and whether the alcove between the chimneys is usable. Moving to the front of the house, we design the dwarf wall, which goes from the floor to the sloping ceiling, to be typically 1.4 meters high.
We aim for 2.4m headheight but the reality of your flatroof construction will ultimately decide the headheight.
The ensuite will normally be as wide as the stairwell plus landing, with a bit off The ensuite will normally be as wide as the stairwell plus landing, with a bit off
This height can be adjusted. Unless you’re setting the bed against it, you may opt for a smaller dwarf wall to expand the area towards the front of the house.
Depending on the width of your house, {{Contractor?}} will usually install two eaves accesses, but if your house is narrow, one may suffice. The positioning of these accesses depends on how you wish to use the space, and the placement of Velux roof lights to the main space also varies accordingly.
Again, the choice of styles and the vertical positioning of Velux roof lights depend on your preferences for views to the front of the house and how they fit within the sloping ceiling. Usually, space constraints limit the size of these windows, but we'll do our best to design accordingly.
The door to the ensuite usually swings inwards to avoid contain condensation, but if space is limited we can install a sliding pocket door. Please note this comes at extra cost and placement is restricted.
The ensuite will normally be as wide as the stairwell plus landing, around 165cm. A fitted bath requires a length of 1.7m so the Ensuite can be widened if wanted.
Typically this is 1.4m high to accommodate the fittings and placement of the WC.
The toilet is best located against this wall, and
We position the rooflight over the WC to provide additional head height.
The basin positioned on the partywall allows a mirror above it. Where space allows, we position the radiator closest to where you need it most - the shower and basin. Otherwise it can be anywhere to warm the room.
As with construction on the chimney wall, insulation is necessary depending on whether your stairside-neighbour already has a loft conversion.
A full-height zone within the room is required for the shower, hence the back corner away from the sloping ceiling. The size and orientation of the shower tray is restricted by the sloping ceiling and other factors.
The wardrobe space, located between the ensuite and the landing, is left empty as standard, but fitted wardrobes can be discussed with {{Contractor}}.
Where there’s a wardrobe we give two doors, hinged and swinging. If space is limited, such as close to the foot of the bed, sliding doors can be fitted instead.
If your property is long, you may have space to separate the front from the main bedroom to serve as a Dressing Area or an Study. It can be anything up to 1.8 meters high but does obstruct light from the front Veluxes to the main room.
In the dressing area, either built-in drawers against the dwarf wall, or a wardrobe against the floating wall, or both. A gap will be needed for access between them, so depending on the space available it could just be one or the other.